Product performance and Application
Kojic dipalmitate (ActiBiso-KDP) is produced by the fermentation and purification of glucose or sucrose under the action of kojic dipalmitate. Its whitening mechanism is to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, at the same time, inhibit the activity of n-hydroxyindoleate (dhica) oxidase and block the polymerization of dihydroxyindole (DHI). It is a rare single whitening agent that can simultaneously inhibit a variety of enzymes. However, Kojic Acid is instable at light, heat, and is not easily absorbed by the skin, so Kojic Acid derivatives came into being. Researchers have developed many derivatives of Kojic Acid to improve the performance of it. Kojic Acid derivatives not only have the same whitening mechanism as Kojic Acid, but also have better performance than it.
After esterification with Kojic Acid, either monoester or diester of Kojic Acid can be formed. At present, the most popular whitening agent of Kojic Acid on the market is ActiBiso-KDP, which is the diesterification derivative of Kojic Acid. It is found that the whitening effect of the compound of Kojic Acid Dipalmitate and glucosamine derivative is multiplied.
1) Whitening: Kojic Dipalmitate is more effective than Kojic Acid in inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase in skin, thus inhibiting the formation of melanin, which has a good effect on whitening skin and sun protection.
Guidelines for the compounding of Kojic Dipalmitate cosmetics:
It is difficult to add the Kojic Dipalmitate to the formula, and it is easy to form crystal precipitation. In order to solve this problem, it is suggested to add isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate to the oil phase containing Kojic Dipalmitate, heat the oil phase to 80 ℃, keep it for 5 minutes until the Kojic Dipalmitate is completely dissolved, and then add the oil phase to the water phase, emulsify it for about 10 minutes. Generally, the pH value of the terminal product is about 5.0-8.0.
The recommended dosage of Kojic Dipalmitate is 1-5% in cosmetics and 3-5% in whitening products.
INCI name: Kojic Dipalmitate
Other name；Kojic Acid Dipalmitate
CAS : 79725-98-7
Appearance: White powder